![]() ![]() Pouring on very hot sand is another possibility.īut what are natural fiddleback stripes? They are a slight ondulation of the grain, so that within a fraction of an inch it presents itself at a different angle to the surface. Flame scorching can, but you would have to use some kind of hand-held shield to avoid excessive charring on sharp edges. But I have seen various authorities saying it doesn't actually work. There is a theory that some early rifles were striped by binding with tarred string and burning it off. Oak does, even to the fuming process, and more useful gunstock woods might too. Different woods react in different degrees to acid, and it might be that some react also to ammonia. String binding with stain or acid might work. Unless they are making trees differently nowadays, the old-time gunsmiths unquestionably did something. ![]() I also vinegar finished the metal with cotton string as well but that is nother story. Took me two weeks of working it to get the finish I was happy with. All hand rubbed and lite sand between coats. I thinned some lines so as to appear faffing then coat after coat of boiled linseed oil. Likely sand taking care to not but just barely remove the cotton that had stuck to the wood. ![]() Did this on every string and repeated this for 3 days.Īfter allowing it to completely dry I drug the string off and as mentioned above. I dropped very dark stain on the string along the top of the stock until the bottom dripped stain. Then I took an eye dropper and after hanging the stock so it was right side up. I took cotton string and wound it in various distance to the last ring so as to not have any "line" looking like the one before it. Try it on a piece of scrap wood first to perfect your techniqueYes I agree. I think regular wood stain will work, if you wring out the cord so it is not applying the stain too wet on the stock. That stained the stock in random lines, then I LIGHTLY sanded the stock and applied the finish like Linseed oil. Then I wrapped the cord around the stock in random patterns, and let it sit for a couple of days. I soaked a cotton cord in Red Man Chewing Tabaco desolved in denatured Alcohol or water. I did a few stocks Years ago back when I was first doing gunsmithing work. Although the book describes it being done with a brush of some kind, if one were very good with an airbrush then I'd think that would be another way to do it, so as to get some degree of "fade" at the edges of the lines. We see this technique used on the cheaper musical instruments which were traditionally made of curly (AKA "figured") Maple, such as bassoons, violin backs and sides, etc. It would only be practical for mass production, being that the one-off home builder would likely have a much easier time simply obtaining real, figured Maple or Walnut. ![]() If done correctly it can be quite convincing, at a distance anyway. If using a stain, it would tend to bleed out into the grain at random, and so you'd need something thicker, or to first do a seal coat on the wood. Otherwise poke around on Track of the Wolf's web site for a bit. I believe the process is described in some detail in the book, Recreating the American Longrifle, by Buchele, Shumway, and Alexander. ![]()
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